suspension

[5.0chad]

What rear control arms would u recomend. Loking to spend 350 for upper and lower

[gearhead]

bbk kit is the only ones that i can think of that fit that price range..


there may be some others.

[The Don]

The summit brand tubular ones are around 220 I believe. I have them on my car and no complaints yet. However they are not adjustable but I do like the looks of them, very nicely put together.

[TrickVert]

Maximum Motorsports HD LCA's - $249.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&manufacturers_id=&products_id=498&zenid=6cf56f5d6e64d3a842aa069bfc6197ac

I don't know what year your car is, but if it's a fox, upgrading to SN95 uppers would be an economical improvement. (Same as the FRPP uppers you see listed.)

Andy

[conan90]

Go with summit brand. I bought min for $170 and have had no problems. the only downside is they are not adjustable but for taking it on the street they are more than capable. if you are drag racing it a lot then look for fully adjustable. here are some for 360 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UPI-101517-R/ the non adjustable do well for drag racing too but obviously not as good as the adjustable

[El_Diablo]

forget the uppers (or get the sn95 style as suggested) and just go with global west or MM lowers......

[conan90]

forget the uppers (or get the sn95 style as suggested) and just go with global west or MM lowers......

I don't know man, I would say forget the lowers and get adjustable uppers so you can change the pitch on the rear end. the uppers are just stamped steel and they flex real easy when doing burnouts or hard launches. the stock lowers are alot more durable so they aren't a main issue when looking to save money.

[DsmFighter]

UPR Chromoly

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-rear-control-arm-suspension-kit.html $220 + shipping

or

adjustables

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-adjustable-pro-street-control-arm-package-79.html


I wouldn't put any other control arms on.

[TrickVert]

I don't know man, I would say forget the lowers and get adjustable uppers so you can change the pitch on the rear end. the uppers are just stamped steel and they flex real easy when doing burnouts or hard launches. the stock lowers are alot more durable so they aren't a main issue when looking to save money.

Installing quality LCA's will have a far more significant impact over any upper-only change. The stock lowers are "just stamped steel" also, and their flexing contributes greatly to wheel hop and slop. If looking for a very economical solution, and you have access to a welder, you can box them and upgrade to poly bushings, and really improve heir rigidity.

For upper arms, a stock set of SN95 pieces is the most economical improvement over a Fox setup, though even just replacing spent bushings will make a marked improvement. As I understand it, adjustable uppers are generally only needed when other suspension modifications have significantly changed the pinion angle (or for drag racing where severe loading does the same thing).

Andy

[El_Diablo]

agreed, there are no real reasons to go with uppers as a first choice since they wont help nearly as much.... changing the pinion angle wont do a thing for him

[Freakingstang]

you guys that haven't driven an IRS equipped car don't know what wheel hop is....


Any LCA is going to help on drag radials or slicks, but doubt you will notice much of a difference on the street. I like to change the uppers also, but a nice steel boxed arm is all that 98% of the car here need.

Just make sure you get ones with poly bushings, and make sure you you put the grease on them when you install them or you'll not like the squeak.

[TrickVert]

you guys that haven't driven an IRS equipped car don't know what wheel hop is....


Any LCA is going to help on drag radials or slicks, but doubt you will notice much of a difference on the street. I like to change the uppers also, but a nice steel boxed arm is all that 98% of the car here need.

Just make sure you get ones with poly bushings, and make sure you you put the grease on them when you install them or you'll not like the squeak.

Actually, my MM LCA's helped even with my Nitto 555's, not that it was severe to begin with.

I assume you're referring to poly bushings for the LCA's. Poly in the uppers (especially after replacing the LCA's with stronger pieces) is asking for the torque boxes to be torn and/or weird rear-end loading/unloading when the suspension binds. You need some give in them.

Andy

[DeaconBlue]

The best lower control arms have a Delrin-Spiral type bushing at one end to prevent binding, such as those from; Spohn, Edelbrock or UMI. These are the best for both street or track use.

[TrickVert]

Deacon: I'm not sure about your point of Delrin being selected for elimination of bind. It is a high-durometer material which provides *more* stability than the typical rubber material. (Poly bushings are a step between.) The best arms will have a spherical bearing/heim joint at one end, and high-durometer bushings on the other. It is the heim joint that allows free articulation and elimination of bind, and the bushing at the other end gives some compliance for NVH reduction. LCA's with heim joints at both ends are available, but the NVH increase would likely be significant.

As noted above, Maximum Motorsports and Global West are two top-quality LCA choices. I'm not familiar with any of the ones you've suggested here.

EDIT: The only one on your list which I saw referred to in the AX section of Corral is UMI, which received good feedback. Spohn was not mentioned at all (do they make anything for Mustangs other than the 05+?) , and I couldn't find where anyone was using Edlebrock.

I'll stand by my two above, and throw in UMI.

Andy

[TrickVert]

DP

[DeaconBlue]

Exactly, a spherical at one end and a poly bushing at the other. Double ended heim joints are for race cars only, never for use on the street.


Deacon: I'm not sure about your point of Delrin being selected for elimination of bind. It is a high-durometer material which provides *more* stability than the typical rubber material. (Poly bushings are a step between.) The best arms will have a spherical bearing/heim joint at one end, and high-durometer bushings on the other. It is the heim joint that allows free articulation and elimination of bind, and the bushing at the other end gives some compliance for NVH reduction. LCA's with heim joints at both ends are available, but the NVH increase would likely be significant.

As noted above, Maximum Motorsports and Global West are two top-quality LCA choices. I'm not familiar with any of the ones you've suggested here.

EDIT: The only one on your list which I saw referred to in the AX section of Corral is UMI, which received good feedback. Spohn was not mentioned at all (do they make anything for Mustangs other than the 05+?) , and I couldn't find where anyone was using Edlebrock.

I'll stand by my two above, and throw in UMI.

Andy

[Darkhorse]

UPR Pro Series
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-chrome-moly-pro-series-uppers-lower-package-79.html

* UPR Pro Series Upper and Lower Adjustable Control Arms
* Exclusive New Reinforced Brackets
* 2 Hour Installation ( Simple Hand Tools )
* Lowers made from Chrome Moly .083 wall thickness tubing
* Double Reinforced Upper & Lower Housing Bracket
* Uppers Manufactured from Indestructible Heat Treated Steel
* Fits all 1979-1998 Ford Mustangs V6 & V8

Quality Construction:* ( Completely 100% Redesign Uppers, Released 11/15/08 ) *

Upper Control Arms feature Chrome Moly Formed boxes that have been revised with a gusset to eliminate any flex or unwanted distortion from Ultra High Horsepower Mustangs. We have also had additional Top and bottom Plate reinforcements that will now outlast even the strongest 7second 200MPH Drag Radial and Outlaw Mustangs making in excess of 2500+HP.

The 4130 Chrome Moly threaded adjuster system allows these bars to be fully in car adjustable on the fly or between rounds in the lanes. Setting your pinion angle just got so much easier that it can be done in just minutes. Hands down these are the Strongest Double Adjustable Uppers available for a mustang in the industry.

Fully CNC machined and tig welded in billet steel fixtures to ensure perfection. Our Silver Zinc Plating will withstand the Elements & Resistant Corrosion. Last but not least is our 7075 billet aluminum bushings and high strength performance alloy

Lower Control Arms feature the same Lower Control Arm used by many NMRA race teams. Consistently lowers your 60 foot times and uses aluminum bushings instead of the standard rubber or urethane bushings found in most lower control arms.

4130 Chrome Moly .083 wall thickness tubing CNC machined and Tig welded in Billet Steel Fixtures for a perfect fit every time. 7075 billet aluminum bushings and high strength performance alloy rod ends.

No one else gives you the bold clean styling of our Aftermarket Dress Ups, Suspension and Performance Parts for your American Muscle Car like UPR Products!


Call Keith at Big Shot Dyno - he's a UPR dealer.

[LX2NV]

i rip the bushings out of every set of "summit" control arms.

[91STANG]

upr pro series...

[TrickVert]

upr pro series...

With solid bushings? Maybe for a dedicated track car, but not for the street. Unless you want to feel and hear every little articulation of the rear end, that is.

Andy

[TrickVert]

i rip the bushings out of every set of "summit" control arms.

Rip them out in use, or before-hand and replace them with something else prior to install?

Andy

[DeaconBlue]

Those UPR contorl arms look very nice. Has anyone here ever used the BMR contorl arms?

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/Mustang.htm

[ecal533]

BBK makes a nice set for $299

[Steed93]

I also agree that getting an LCA with a poly bushing at one end and a spherical bearing at the other end is the best based on the research that I've done. Check out MM website and you will find the literature helpful.

[Darkhorse]

I've never had an issue with my solid rears - not sure what the big deal is. Not a dedicated race car either, not sure where that came into play.

The ride quality doesn't bother me one bit.

[gearhead]

get the adjustable uppers with poly bushing.s, but new bushing in the housing, and get the matching lowers..i can make you a deal on them shipped to your door.(and still be under 300)

[gearhead]

I've never had an issue with my solid rears - not sure what the big deal is. Not a dedicated race car either, not sure where that came into play.

The ride quality doesn't bother me one bit.


mainly noise ...me and you can live with it..some cant. i like heim joint all round..but they get noisy

[Darkhorse]

mainly noise ...me and you can live with it..some cant. i like heim joint all round..but they get noisy

Yeppers

Guess i'm "race only"........like you :rofl:

[vizzle2689]

i had the summit brand none adjustable and i really like them, eliminated alot of wheel hope with nitto 555s! i only thing i wish i would have gotten is the adjustable ones! but besides that cant complain also look cool under a car :)

[gearhead]

street bars
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/gearhead559/Shop%20stuff/100_5344.jpg

still has a heim joint in the front.